Buttonhole sewing and cutting machine.



No. 649,37). Patented May I5, |900.,

J. T. HUGAN. BuTToNHoLE SEWING AND' CUTTING MACHINE.

(Application led June 15, 1897.) (No Model.) 6 Sheets-Sheet l.

"WSU wz IRB) Q3 X k ,m i [E x 5/ cl f |I Q, w w WITNESSES: #w iNvENToRNo. 649,870. Patented Nay I5, 1900. J. T. HOGAN.

BUTTNHOLE SEWING AND CUTTING NIAGHINE.

(Application led June 15, 1897.)

(No Model.) 6 Sheets-Sheet 2.

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WITNESSES: v INVENTOR j M ATTORNEY No. 649,870. Patented May- I5, |900.J. T. HGAN.

BUTTDNHOLE SEWING AND CUTTING MACHINE.

(Application filed. June 15, 1897.)

(No Model.)

lN-VENTOR WITNESSES:

BY a-0 7m ATTORNEY no., wAsHmoToN o c No. 649,870. Patented May I5,|900.

J. T. HUGAN. BUT'TONHULE SEWING AND CUTTNG. MACHINE.

(Application filed June 15, 1897.)

6 Sheets-Sheet 4,

(N0 Model.)

INVENTOR we Nonms paens oo. now-Uma., wnsmwmcm, n4 c,

No. 649,870. Patented May I5, |900. J. T. HUGAN.

BUTTUNHOLE SEWING AND CUTTING MACHINE.

(Application led June 15, 1897.) (No Mudelr.)

6 Sheets-Sheet 5.

7M ATTORNEY Patented May l5, l90. J. T. HBGAN'.

BUTTONHDLE SEWING AND CUTTING MACHINE.

(Application led June 16, 1897.)

-(Nu Model.)

6 Sheets-Sheet 6,

Nv NAN @5% .III

WITNESSES:

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wirr. Srafrns erich..

PATENT JAMES T. HOGAN, OF JERSEY CITY, NEV JERSEY, ASSIGNOR TO llllFNATIONAL lllAOl'llNF. COMPANY, OF TROY, NEV YORK.

BUTTONHOLE SEWING AND CUTTING MACHINE.

srnerrrcacrtolv forming part of Letters Patent No. 649,976, dated May15, 1900. tppiimitn fina June 15,1897. serial No. 640357. (No model.)

.To LZZ whom 71mg/ concern.-

Be it known that I, JAMES T. llooAN, of Jersey City, in the county ofHudson and State of New Jersey, have invented a certain new and usefulImprovement in Buttonhole- Machines, of which the following is aspecilication.

I will describe a machine embodying my improvement and then point ontthe novel features in the claims.

In the accompanying drawings, Figure l is a front view of a machineembodying' my improvement. Fig. 2 is a top View of the same, certainparts having been broken away. Fig. 3 is an end view of the arm of themachine, showing the needle-bar-supporting mechanism, the cover beingremoved for the purpose of exposing such mechanism. Fig. 4 is ahorizontal section at the plane of the dotted line 4 4, Fig. 3. Fig. 5isa top View of certain parts. Fig. 6 is another top View of certainparts. Fig. G is an inverted plan or bottom view of a bar andappurtenances represented in Fig. 6. Fig. 7 is an inverted plan ofcertain portions of the machine beneath the bedplate, this view beingupon a larger scale. Fig. 8 is a longitudinal vertical section takenthrough the axial line of the feed-wheel. Fig. 9 is a transversevertical section taken through the axial line of the feed-wheel. Fig. 10is a top view of a cani. Fig. l1 is a bottom view ot`.afeed-levercomprised in the machine. Fig. l2 is a transverse section ofthe said lever. Fig. 13 is a view of the rear side of the lower end ofthe cutter-bar and of the rear edge of the cutter. Fig. it is a sideView of these parts.

Similar letters of reference designate corresponding parts in allfigures.

A designates the bed of the sewingma chine.

B designates the arm, having the main shaft C arranged horizontally inits upper portion. Aiixed to this shaft is a disk O', having on thatside which is toward the arm of the machine a protnberance consisting',as here shown, of a circumferentially-inclined surface c, whichcooperates with a stop D. This stop is shown as supported by a three-armlever d d2 cl3, which is fnlcrumed by a pin or screw d* to a bracket d5,which may be attached to the bed A and arm B of the machine. Mountedloosely upon the main shaft beyond the disk O is a belt-pulley E, andthis has frictional engagement with the adjacent side of the disk OQ awasher of friction-generating material, such as paper, being preforablyinterposed. Such a washer may be inserted in a recess formed in the sideof the disk C.

The arm d2 of the lever d' d2 d3 bears against the side of thebelt-pulley E and serves to press it toward the disk C. This arm of thelever is preferably provided for this purpose with an adjustable pin orscrew d opposite the center of the belt-pulley E. It will be seen thatwhen the lever is oscillated in one direction by power applied to itsarm cl3 it will move the belt-pulley toward the disk C and the stop Daway from the disk O', but that when it is moved in the reversedirection the pressure of the belt-pulley against the disk O will berelaxed and the stop D will be moved to a position to stop the disk O.

The arm cl3 of the lever is pivotally connected by a pin or screw d7with a rod d8, litted to bearings formed integral with the bed A andarranged to slide lengthwise of the bed along the under side of thesame. Between one of these bearings and a collar d, which is aliixed tothe rod cls, a helical spring d10 is coiled around the rod. This springacts in a direction to oscillate the lever in such direction as to applythe stop to the disk O and relax the pressure of the pulley E upon saiddisk.

A lever d, fulcrumed to a pin (7.12, that is supported by a bracket d,fastened to the bed A of the machine, is connected by a chain tted to aneye d1'l with a treadle that is :intended to be actuated by the operatorto depress the lever. Normally a spring d15 will oscillate this leverupwardly. The lever d is a bell-crank lever. It has an upright arm thatis provided with apin di, which engages with a lslot or notch in acollar dl?, fastened to the rod d8. By depressing the lever d the rod(Z8 will be moved longitudinally against the force of the spring d10,and thus the lever will be oscillated in such direction that its stopwill be removed from the disk C' and the belt-pulley E will be pressedagainst said disk to cause the operation of the machine.

The lever d is not held by the trcadle in the position to which it isadjusted, but is left free, so that the parts may be reversed in theiraction automatically. When the 1ever d is depressed, it is, however,locked in position by means of a lever dlg, that engages With a notch ina finger d1, extending from a collar d20, which is affixed to the rodds. The lever C118 is fulcrumed to a pin or screw C121, passing throughthe bed4 A of the machine. A spring Z22 acts to oscillate the lever d18into a position to engage with the finger dlg when permitted so to do bya cam C123, Whose operation will hereinafter be more fully described. Itis a cam that -is carried rotarily around to its operating position oncefor each buttonhole that is cut and stitched. It has an inclined forwardend that coacts with a correspond'ingly-inclined end of the lever d, andit is by the coaction of these inclined surfaces that the said lever isoscillatedv in the contrarydirection to that in which it is moved by thespring e122. Whenever the cam da oscillates the leverds, it disengagesit from the nger dm, thereby allowing the spring d to' move the rod d8in the proper direction to relax the pressure of the belt-pulley Eagainst the disk O and to apply the stop to said' disk.

When the treadle which is employed to depress the lever d is releasedafter having depressed the lever, the spring CX will raise the lever toits normal position, and thereby it will bring a iin ger or roll C124into con tact with the end portion of a finger e125, extending from acollar dis, that is fastened to-the rod d8. The` finger or roll 124 willremain in contact with the end portion of the finger tizi until i thecam d23 disengages the lever dls from the finger d of the rod d8,thereby allowing the rod to be moved by the spring d10. When thishappens, the spring d15 raises the lever d still farther, and therebyshifts the finger or roll dit to one side of the finger d2 of the rod dato later come in contact with it, as hereinafter pointed out, therebylookin g. the rod el8` against an'y'outward movement, or, in

' other words, against any movement in the direction contrary to that inwhich the spring d1 is capable of movingit. While the rod d8 is lockedby the finger or roll d2 against any outward movement, the incline c ofthe disk C will come opposite to the stop which is affixed tothe arm dof the lever D and will crowd against said stop until the latterpositively arrests its movement.

The lever C118 may be disengaged from the finger du by a hand-lever dim,which is `fulcrumed by a pin d2? to a bracket (128, extending downwardlyfrom the bed A of the machine. The lower arm of this lever e126 crossesthe lever dlg, and its upper arm extends above the bed.

F designates a cutter-bar supported in the end of the arm B, so that itmay reciprocate vertically and also oscillate about its axis. Itis shownas having a cutter f of a length adapting it to'cut an entire buttonholeat one stroke. In this example of myimprovement the cutter operates atabout the time the stitching begins; but this timing is notessential tomy invention.

It will be seen, Fig. 3, that ,the arm B has in its outer end a chamberb and that the cutter-bar extends through this chamber, being supportedby a bearin formed in the bot tom of the chamber and by a bearing formedin a collarf, fitted in the top of the chamber. A spline or feather f2engages the cutter-har with the collar f', so that by oscillating thecollar an oscillatory movement Will be imparted to the cutter-bar inaddition to its reciprocatory movement. The purpose of the oscillatorymovementis to oscillate the cutter into and out of a position in linewith Vthe buttonhole to be formed and also for the purpose of engagingand disengaging the cutterbar and the-part which is to reciprocate it.In the present instance the reciprdcation of the cutter-bar is effectedby the needle-bar G, the latter having afxed to it for this purpose acollar g, provided in one side with a notch into which may be swung atoe or fin` ger f3, that extends from a collar f4, affixed to thecutter-bar. As here shown, the collar f4 of the cutter-bar is providedwith a stopd shoulder f5, which will contact with a portion of thecollar g of the needle-bar to arrest the cutter-bar in its oscillatorymovement as soon as it comes into the position in which it shouldoperate to cut a buttonhole. When the cutter-bar has been elevated toits highest position and oscillated out of engagement with theneedle-bar, a pin f6, extending radially from the cutter-bar, will becarried over a support f7, and thus the cutter-bar will be maintained inan elevated position until it has to operate again. Then it will beoscillated so that its pin]c6 will leave the support]c7 and the cutterwill assume an operative position. Besides this, the cutter-bar Will beproperly IOO IIO

engaged with the needle-bar. The collarf is provided with a pin f8,which is attached to a rod f9. The rod f9 is oscillated vertically by alever f 10. Itis permitted to engage with a lever f, that is aflixed toone end of a rock'- shaft I, that is journaled in the arm B of themachine and driven by a cam that is mounted upon a screw-stud t', thesaid cam being geared to the main shaft C. At the proper time the leverf 1 throws it out of engagement with the lever fn. As all thismechanismfor operating the cutter is old and well known, I have notattempted to illustrate it, nor shall l describe it in detail.

The leverf 10 projects downwardly through the bed A ot the machine forthe purpose of coacting with a leverfls. A spring f19 holds itin contactwith the leverfls. Arotary cam fm operates the lever fis, and hence theleverflo.

While the cutter may be mounted upon the cutter-bar in any desiredmanner so far as.

the operation of other parts of the machine are concerned, I prefer tomount it inv the manner illustrated. It will be seen, Figs. 13 and 14,that a collar f12 is fitted to the lower end of the cutter-bar andsecured there by means of a screwfl. As the cutter-bar is cylindricaland the hole in the collar f1L is also cylindrical, it is possible toadjust the collar rotarily upon the cutter-bar by suitably manipulatingthe screw fis. The collar f12 has one flat side f andis iiat on thebottom. An L-shaped piece flis fitted to the flat side f14 of the collarand to the bottom of the colf12 and is secured thereto by means of ascrew f1, passing through the upright portion of the L-shaped piece fland into the flat side f1" of the collar f 12. The upright portion ofthe L-shaped piece fl has a horizontal slot f 17, through which thescrew fw passes. Hence the L-shaped piece may be shifted horizontally.As the flat side f14 of the collar f12 is at the rear of the collar f1?,it is possible to shift the L-shaped piece in the direction of thelength of the arm B of the machine, which will be transversely to thelength of a buttonhole. As the cutter is fastened to the L-shaped piecefk", the adjustment of the L- shaped piece in the manner just explainedwill effect the shifting of the cutter, so that it may be made to cut abnttonhole upon the descent of the needle while making either anedge-stitch or a depth-stitch. As the cutter is provided with horizontalslots through which pass screws that fasten it to the L- shapedpiecej'l, it may be independently adjusted endwise. These possibilitiesof adj ustment are advantageous, because when the cutting is donesubstantially in advance of the stitching, or, in other words, at thebeginning of the stitching, it is desirable that the cutter shouldoperate during the descent of the needle for making a depth-stitch,whereas if the cutter is to operate after the substantial completion ofthe stitching it will be more desirable to have it descend during thedescent of the needle for making an edgestitch.

Later on I shall describe means whereby the cutter may be timed tooperate at the beginning or at the end of the stitching operation.

The needle-bar G works through the chamber Z), formed at the end of thearm B and reciprocates through openings formed in the top and bottom ol'such chamber and made of such size as not to interfere with thenecessary movements of the needle bar. It is mounted in a well-knownmanner to recipro` cate vertically, and it may be combined in anysuitable manner with the main shaft, so as to be reciprocated thereby.The needle-bar G is not supported directly by the arm Il of thesewing-machine, but in a yoke or frame G, which reciprocates in thedirection of the length of the arm B, so that the needle will be carriedfirst on one side and then on the other side of a given line to produceedgestitches along the center line of a buttonhole and depthwstitches atone side thereof. It

'will be seen, Fig. 3, that the yoke or frame G has a bearing g at itslower extremity and a bearing g2 at it upper extremity and that theneedle-bar is supported in both of these bearings in such manner that itmay reciprocate vertically through them. The yoke or frame G is mainlyof rectangular form, it being composed of two vertical portions g3 g4,connected near their ends by horizontal portions g5 Q6, the bearings g'g2 being formed integral with these horizontal portions g5 gs. Thevcrtical portion g3 has vertical trunnion-bearings at its upper andlower ends in the end of the arm of the machine, so that the entire yokeor frame may oscillate horizontally. The vertical portion g'i isprovided with an arm Q7, that is at its outer extremity connectedpivotally by a pin or screw gS with one end of a horizontalreciprocating rod gf. By means of this rod the yoke or frame G isoscillated horizontally, and thus it is made to carry the needle-bar toand fro, or, in other words, to give it the jogging movement necessaryfor the production of stitches. The mechanism for operating this rod glI will describe presently.

The needle-bar is reci procated vertically by means of a disk c', whichis affixed to that end of the main shaft C which terminates near theneedle-bar G. Upon this disk is a wristpin c2, and such wrist-pin coactswith a collar gw, which is afxed to the needle-bar G. The disk c isconstructed to constitute a cam for operatinga take-up lever H; but asthis forms no part of my present invention I will make no furthermention of it.

The rod gf is connected with a stud g, that extends from a block tiltedin a slideway gli, formed in a lever gli, which is rigidly affixed tothe front end of the shaft I, so that when said shaft is oscillated bythe cam before mentioned it will oscillate this lever Q13 and the latterwill reciprocate the rod gf. Obviously by shifting the position of thestud g11 along the lever g1, so that it will be nearer to or fartherfrom the fulcrum-shaft I, the ainplitude of the reciprocation of the rodg will be varied. For shifting the stud g length wise of the lever gli;I employ in the present example of my invention a lever Q14, that isfulcrumed to a pin or screw Q15, fastened to the arm B of the machine.The free end of this lever is longitudinally slotted or forked toembrace the stud gu. Intermediate of the ends of the lever ou it ispivotally connected by a pin g1 to a rod g, A helical spring g1Ssurrounds this rod between the bed A and a collar gli), that isfastened' by a set-screw to the rod gu. By means of this spring the rodgw, and hence the lever y and the stud g, will be moved upward wheneverthere is no counteractin g force.

The lower end of the rod gli is pivotally connected by a screw y?" witha cam-lever gm. This lever g21 is fulcrumed to a pin or screw g2g,supported in a bracket g2, extending downwardly from the bed A. Intcrmediate IOO IIO

4.. eligen/" of its ends the lever Q21 is provided with alaterally-extending toe or finger Q24,that bears upon a cam Q25. The toeor nger Q24 is fastened to the lever Q21 by screws Q26, that passthrough slots Q27, extending lengthwise of the lever, so as to affordprovision for adjusting the toe or finger toward either end of thelever. Thus provision is afforded for adjusting to a nicety the movementimparted to the stud Q11 lengthwise of the lever Q15. It also affordsprovision for timing the shifting of the stud Q11 along the lever Q12,because by shifting such toe or finger in one direction or the otheralong the lever Q21 the cam will operate upon it either sooner or later.

The cam Q25 is a rim-cam, or, in other words, a cam formed on the underside of an annular or rim-like part.

Any suitable shuttle mechanism may be employed. In the present instancea shuttle is fitted into a race S', which is fastened to a bracket S,that is secured to the under side of the bed A. A shuttle-driver s'propels the shuttle and is comprised in a lever that is oscillated bymeans of a rod s2, which derives motion from a wrist-pin S5, extendingfrom a disk s4, affixed to an upright shaft S, geared to the main shaftC. As here shown, the cam Q25 is formed integral with the disk, havingslots Q28, which are concentric with the center or axis of the cam.Through these slots pass screws Q29, that engage with the under side ofthe feed-wheel J. The slots Q28 afford provision for adjusting the camQ25 relatively to the feed-wheel. The feed-wheel is affixed to a cam K,which is the cam which'produces the progressive feeding movementlengthwise of a buttonhole. It will be seen that this cam K is agroovecam. Integral with the cam K is a cam L, which may be termed achangecam, because it changes the position of the fabric in which thebuttonhole is being stitched, so that the stitches will occur indifferent relations to the center line of a buttonhole. To be moreexplicit, this cam will cause the stitches to be arranged in rows forthe sides of a buttonhole and in groups for the ends of a buttonhole toconstitute barring. As in this form of machine the fabric in which thebuttonhole to be worked is held in a clamp M, the cams K L operate uponthis work-clamp. The means whereby they are enabled to fulfil theirfunctions will be described later on. Between the piece comprising thecams K L and the feed-wheel J a gear-wheel O is arranged. The feed-wheelJ ,the gear-wheel Othe piece comprising the cams K L, and the piececomprising the cam Q25 are all provided at or near the center with ahole, so that they may be fitted upon astud N, that is fastened to abed-plate A', fitted in bearings a 0,2, extending downwardly from theunder side of the bed A of the machine, the direction of the slidingmovement of the bed-plate A' being lengthwise of the arm B of themachine. The extremity of this stud N is screw-threaded and fitted witha nut n.

A pin inserted in a hole 7c, :formed in a piece comprising the cams K Land also fitted in similar holes in the feed-wheel J and gearwheel O,locks the said part comprising the cams K L, the gear-wheel O, and thefeedwheel J together, so that they will turn in unison. Owing to theslots Q28 and screws Q22, which secure the cam Q25 to the feed-wheel,this cam Q25 may be adjusted rotarily not only with reference to thefeed-wheel, but to the cams K L. Intermediate of the disk from which thecam Q25 extends and the nut n a friction device n' surrounds the stud N.It may consist of a disk of metal and a number of disks of leather orlike material arranged intermediate of said disk of metal and the diskwith which the cam Q25 is formed.

The cam Q25 makes one complete rotation for each buttonhole. It has twoflat surfaces 1 2 and two intermediate notches 3 4, which arediametrically opposite each other. While the two rows of side stitchesare being formed the toe or finger Q24 will be in contact with theportions 1 2 of the cam Q25. During the formation of thebarring-stitches at the ends of the two rows of side stitches the toe orlinger Q24 will rise in the notches 3 4. It will seen that the rearfaces or sides of these notches are inclined. As in this way the rod Q17will be made to shift the stud Q11 farther from the fulcrum-shaft I, theamplitude of the jogging movement of the needle-bar G will be increased,and consequently the barringstitches will be longer than the sidestitches. They will be made gradually shorter-that is, each onesucceeding another will be shorter for the last few stitches because ofthe inclined rear faces of the notches 3 4. This variation in the lengthof the barring-stitches is advantageous, because it will result instaying the end of ya buttonhole better than if the stitches were all ofthe same length. Not only do the shorter stitches stay the materialwhere the longer stitches could not stay it, but the shorter stitches.also tie down the longer stitches.

The feed-wheel J may be of any suitable form. I have shown it as beingoperated by means of a pawl j, pivoted to a lever j', which IOO is`mounted. upon a hub j2, with which the feed-wheel is provided. A spring7'2 holds the pawl in engagement with the ratchetteeth on the peripheryof the feed-wheel. A pawl j4, pivoted to a stud Q5, extending from thebed-plate Af and impelled against the periphery of the feed-wheel bymeans of a spring j, prevents backlash of the feedwheel. The lever 7" isprovided with a longitudinal slot ji, and with this slotted portion isconnected a rod js, the means for making the connection beingrepresented as a screw passing through the end of the rod js through theslotj7 of the lever j and having a head on one side of the lever j and anut applied to it at the other side. The rod ja is IZO and a nut, with alever 31, the said lever being longitudinally slotted where the screw jgpasses through it. By the longitudinal slotting of the levers j jmprovision is afforded for adjustments which will vary the throw of thepawl j. Thus stitches maybe ooarser or finer or, in other words, fartherapart or nearer together. The lever jl() is fulcrumed to a screw-stud j,that is fastened to the bed A of the machine. Beyond this fulcrum thelever is bifurcated and operates a cam affixed to the shaft S, and fromthis cam is derived the motion which is transmitted to the feed-pawl j.

The gear-wheel O engages with a pinion O, affixed to a shaft supportedin a bearing carried by the bed-plate A and extending through a slot inth'e bed A of the machine. At the upper end this shaft is provided witha handpiece o, whereby the pinion O/, and

consequently the gear-wheel O and the feedwheel J and the cams K L, maybe turned by hand.

M designates a work-clamp, the particular features of which are claimedin the application filed by me on November 9, 1899, Serial No. 7 36,365,this clamp comprisinga bar 'mto which is hinged alever m1", which leverat its free end supports the shank portion of the top plate of thework-clamp.

The bar m13 is fastened by screws m17 to a bar m18. Preferably the barm13 will be provided with longitudinal slots m1 where the screws m" passthrough it, as thus convenient provision for adjusting the cloth-clamprelatively to the needle and cutter is aorded.

The bar m13, Figs. 6 and 6X, has on the side which is the nearer to thecloth-clamp aprojectionm20,whose sides are shown as converging; but thisfeature of construction is not material. On the upper side of theprojection m20 are two ribs m21, between which the bar m13 fits. Theyserve as steadiments, so as to prevent any oscillation of the bar m13independently of the bar m13. Extending transversely of the bar mls is aslot or notch This extends through that side of the bar which is thefarther from the work-clamp. The bar m13 is provided with a longitudinalslot m25, which is in line with the slot or notch m22, and in the slotm23 of the bar m13 is fastened a stud m24. As shown, it may be clampedin position by means of a nut applied to a screw with which it isprovided. Owing to the fact that this stud is fastened through alongitudinal slot in the bar m13 andthe bar m18 is provided with acoincident slot or notch m22, the stud m24 may be adjusted lengthwise ofthe bar m13 and may protrude downwardly through thc bar m13. On theunder side of the bar m18 are pairs of ribs m25, forming slidewaysfitting blocks m26, tted loosely upon studs m27, which are screwed intoa bar 111.23. This bar ym23 is fitted in a slideway in the upper side ofthe bed-plate A. To afford a long bearing for the bar m28, the bed-plateis provided with latcrally-extending arms a3 cl.

The bar m28 is provided with a stud m2,

which extends downwardly through a slot mm in the bed-plate A into thegroove of the cam K. The bar mS therefore derives motion from the cam Kin directions transverse to the length of the arm B of the machine or,in other words, in the direction of the length of the opening in thework-clamp and lengthwise of a buttonhole produced. This motion is whatis generally called the feed motion progressively lengthwise ofabuttonhole.

It will be seen that the feed-cam K has dwells Zo k2. These, Fig. 10,consist of portions concentric With the axis of the cam. They allow thecam to rotate during the formation of barring-stitches without producingany feed of the work-clamp.

The lower end of the stud m2* is provided with an antifriction-rollerm30, that fits in a longitudinal slot m51, formed in a lever m, which isfulcrumed by a pin or screw m33 to the bed-plate A'. The slot m31 isnecessary to allow adjustments of the stud m24 lengthwise of the bar nlandf transversely of the bar m13.

From the under side of the lever m3" extend jaws m3", which embrace aroller m95, mounted upon a stud m3, that extends upwardly from thefeed-bar m28. By this means the feed-bar ym28 serves to oscillate thelever m32. The lever-m32 transmits motion through the stud m24 to thebar m18, and consequently to the work-clamp, in the direction of thelength of a buttonhole. It will be seen,there fore, that the feed-camdoes not directly impart motion to the work-clamp in the direction forfeeding, but imparts motion directly to the feed-bar m28 in the feedingdirection, and the latter imparts the feeding movement to the work-clampthrough the lever m32 and the bar m18, carrying the bar m13, to whichthe work-clamp is attached. One advantage of this is the opportunityafforded, for adjustments to suit different sizes of buttonholes simplyby shifting the stud m2 nearer to or farther from the fulcruin of thelever m32.

The change-cam L cooperates with a roller Z, mounted upon a stud Z',affixed to the bearing a2 of the bed-plate A. As the changecam L ismounted upon this bed-plate and the roller Z is mounted upon astationary part of the machine, it follows that the cam will derive abodily movement from its coaction with the roller and that such movementwill be imparted tothe bed-plate. Helical springs Z2, attached at oneend to the arms a3 c4 of the bed-plate A and at the other end toappurtenances of the bed A of the machine, tend to draw the bed-plate Aso as to move the change-cam toward the roller Z. The projections of thecam will of course effecta movement in the contrary direction. Thechangecam is composed of a number of concentric portions Z3 Z4 Z5, therebeing two short circumferential portions Z4 of the same radius and twolong circumferential portions Z3 Z5 of radii diiferent from each otherand different from IOO IIO

Y of theother row of side stitches.

the radius of the portions Z4. The long` cireumferential portion Z3 willprevent any movement of the work-clamp transversely to the length of abuttonhole While one -row of side stitches is being formed, and the longcircumferential portion Z5 will perform the same ofiice for thework-clamp during the formation The other Y circumferential portionshold the clamp against jogging during the formation of thebarring-stitches. The shoulders or offsets intermediate of the two shortcircumferential portions-Zt and the long circumferential portions Z3 Z5serve to shift the work-clamp prior toand after the completion of twosets of barring-stitches which are formed at the ends of a" buttonhole,the obvious purpose of thus shifting the work-clamp being to secure theproper disposition of the two rows of side stitches with reference tothe center line of the buttonhole and to secure the disposition of thebarring-stitches equally across the center line of the buttonhole onboth sides.

It will -be seen that the dwells k' 7a2 of the feed-cam K, which suspendthe feeding of the work-clamp, are operative at the time that theshortcircumferential portions Z4 of the changecam hold the Work-clamp inposition for the barring-stitches and that while the dwells k 7a2 of thefeed-cam are fulfilling their function andthe short circumferentialportions Z4 of the change-cam are maintaining the proper position of thework-clamp for the barringcreasing the amplitude of the jogging movementof the needle.

, The stop-cam CZ23 is so positioned that it will immediately after theformation of the second set of barring-stitches oscillate the lever dlg,

L so that it will release the rod d8 and permit the spring d10 tooperate. As soon as the rod is moved by the spring the arm d2 is movedaway from the disk C and the arm d moved toward the disk C to have vthepad D in the path of the incline or protuberance c, so that as theprotuberance engages with the pad a cam-like action by the incline onthe pad occurs, which forces the finger CZ25 of the rod d8 intoengagement with the antifriction-,rollen which is brought into positionby the spring dw. This roller will prevent any movement of the rod inthe releasing direction and locks it, so that the rotation of the disk Cwill be stopped. This operation occurs if the incline or protuberancehas not reached the pad when the machine is stopped. Should, however,the protuberance c be in front of the pad CZ when the rod isreleased bythe lever d, the action above described will not immediately occur, andthe disk will continue to rotate, thus carrying the protuberance pastthe pad. As soon, however, as the incline has passed the pad the springd10 will move the rod farther in the locking direction to bringthe paddirectly in the path of the protuberance, so that when they engage againthe cam-like action above described takes place to stop the machine. n

In the illustrated organization the stitching of a buttonhole will beginwith the formation of one row of side stitches, then one set ofbarring-stitches'will be form ed, next the other row of side stitcheswill be made, and finally the second set of barring stitches will beformed. As the buttonhole is to be cut in the illustrated organizationsubstantially -at the beginning of the stitching, the cam f2U ispositioned so that it will effect Athe descent of the cutter just afterthe rst few stitches in the first row of sid-e stitches shallhave beenmade. I do not intend to be limited to the timing mentioned.

It will be seen that the cams dfz are mounted upon the circumference ofthe cam (125. Preferably they will be secured by screws passing through`slots, which will permit of the adjustment of the cams F3 f2 circumferentially of the cam Q25.

What I claim as my invention, and desire to secure by Letters Patent,is-- l. In a sewing-machine, the combination of a work-carryin g clamp,a needle and concomitant parts forstitchin g work held in the workclamp,means for producing jogging movements of the needle of differentamplitudes;

.and a feed-cam for producing a longitudinal movement of the work-clamp,said feed-cam having dwells at opposite points for suspending thelongitudinal movement of the workclamp while the amplitude of thejogging movementof the needle is increased, substantially as described.

2. In a sewing-machine, the combination of a needle and concomitantparts, means for automatically producing a jogging movement of differentamplitudes in the needle, a workcarrying clamp, a feed-cam for producinga longitudinal movement ofthe said clamp, said cam having dwells forsuspending longitudinal motion at certain times, and a changecam forshifting the work-clamp transverselyto change the position of stitchesrelatively to the middle line of the work-clamp to secure thedisposition of stitches equally across said line, substantially asdescribed.

3. In a buttonhole-sewing machine, the combination with sewing mechanismand a work-clamp, of means for producing a feed lengthwise of abuttonhole, means for producing a relative jogging movement between theneedle and work-clamp to form side stitches and a relative joggingmovement of greater amplitude between the needle and workclamp to formbarring-stitches, means to suspend the lengthwise feed of the work-clampat about the time barring-stitches are to be formed, and a change-camfor shifting the work-clamp transversely, when the lengthwise feed issuspended, to secure the disposition of barring-stitches equally acrossthe center line of the buttonhole and to securethe proper disposition ofthe side stitches, substantially as described.

4. In a sewing-machine, the combination of a needle and concomitantparts, means for producing automatically a jogging movement of differentamplitudes in the needle, a heartshaped feed-cam having` concentric arcsat its smallest and largest radii for sus-pending longitudinal motion atcertain times, and a change-cam composed of two short concentric arcs ofequal radii and two long intermediate arcs having radii different fromeach other, and both different from the radii of the shorter arcs, thesaid two cams being so positioned with relation to each other as thatthe short arcs of the change-cam will operate at about the time theconcentric arcs of the feed-cam are operating, substantially asdescribed.

5. In a sewing-machine, the combination of a needle and concomitantparts, a cam for jogging the needle and varying the amplitude of itsjogging movement, a Work-carrying clamp, a feed-cam for moving the samein the direction of its length, and a change-cam for moving the clamptransversely to vary the position of Ithe stitches with reference to itsmiddle longitudinal line, the said cams being so constructed andpositioned relatively to each other as that the short arcs of thechange-cam will operate at about the time that the changecam will shiftthe clamp and cause stitches to be made across its longitudinal middleline, the feed-cam will suspend the longitudinal movement of thework-clamp, and the cam for jogging the needle will change the amplitudeof the jogging movement, substantially as described.

6. In a sewing-machine, the combination of a needle and concomitantparts, a cam for jogging the needle, another cam for varying theamplitude of its jogging movement, a cutter, and a cutter-controlleradjustably connected to the last said cam, substantially as described.

7. In a sewing-machine, the combination with stitch-forming mechanismand feeding mechanism, of a protuberance affixed to the driving-shaft, astop extending adjacent to and adapted to engage said protubcrance, a

spring-actuated rod connected to said stop, a projection on said rod, alever engaging said rod to move the stop ont of operative position, asecond lever to engage said rod to hold the latter when moved by saidfirst-named lever, means actuated by the feeding mechanism to releasesaid second lever from engagement with said rod at the end of thestitching operation, and a finger on the first-named lever adapted toengage with said projection for locking the stop so that the saidprotuberance will engage with the stop as the protuberancc is rotated,substantially as described.

8. In a sewingmachine the combination with stitch-forming mechanism, ofmec-hanism for suspendingthe operation of the stitchforming mechanism ata predetermined period comprising a disk affixed to the drivingshaft ofthe machine and having a protuberance upon one face, a stop extendingadjacent to said disk, and means, comprising a rod having a finger and aspring-actuated lever having means adapted to engage with said iinger,for locking the stop so that the protuberance on the disk Will engageWith it as the disk is rotated, substantially as described.

9. In a sewing-machine the combination with stitch-forming mechanism ofmechanism forsuspending the operation of the stitchforming mechanism ata predetermined period comprising a driving-shaft, a disk moving withsaid shaft and having a protuberancc upon one face, a stop adjacent tosaid face, means, comprising a spring-actuated reciprocating rod thathas a projection, for operating said stop, and a spring-actuated lever,said lever being located to have a part move in the rear of saidprojection when the rod carrying the latter moves the stop to finallyengage with the protuberance, thereby preventing the protuberance movingthe stop, substantially as described.

In testimony whereof I have signed my name to this specification in thepresence ol' two subscribing witnesses.

JAMES T. HOGAN. lVitnesses:

ERNEST lIoPKINsoN, S. II. DILLoNr.

